Valeska Jasso Collado folds latex-covered foam into geometric garments
Fashion designer Valeska Jasso Collado combined metal, foam and latex to create Memphis-influenced garments for her University of Westminster graduate collection.
Valeska Jasso Collado chose an unusual combination of materials to create bold shapes reminiscent of furniture from the 1980s Milan-based design movement lead by designer Ettore Sottsass.
"My shapes are inspired by Memphis style furniture and interior," Jasso Collado told Dezeen. "I love the geometric forms."
Using sheets of foam as the base material, Jasso Collado stuck on layers of latex in different colours.
"I chose foam because it would make the voluminous but clean shapes I had in mind possible," she said. "It also meant I didn't have to build any kind of frame or stuffing which are more common methods to create volume for garments."
"It took me months of sampling to figure out what material to combine the foam with and how to keep it together to prevent it from ripping for example," Jasso Collado explained. "Most materials wouldn't stay on or would change the way it shaped."
Large sections of fabric were folded, pleated and sliced to reveal the layers of colour. The resulting oversized garments create a range of geometric silhouettes.
One top formed from a circular section of speckled material curved up to cover the lower half of the face, with holes for arms to slot through the front.
Elements such as chunky pieces of flecked multicoloured foam were pinned to the garments with steel screws and chrome washers.
Some pieces were edged and streaked with lines of latex in contrasting colours.
The bright colours and smooth glossy textures were influence by the work of ceramic artist Ben Feiss.
"Compared to the rest of the collections from my university this year I think the cleanness and focus on a variety of silhouettes within the collection makes it stand out," said Jasso Collado.
Jasso Collado admitted that the garments aren't particularly wearable in their current state, but hopes to adapt the fabrication techniques for accessories.
"I don't think latex and foam are the most comfortable materials to wear unless it is a rainy winter day," she said.
"I will carry on with fabrication sampling and change some of the shapes too. I'd also like to make some big bags. I'm really looking forward to that."
We've noticed a recent resurgence of the Memphis style in both fashion and industrial design, most prominently in Milan earlier this year.
Elsewhere, American Apparel launched a collection that includes patterns by Memphis group member Nathalie du Pasquier, while a collection of prints influenced by colours and motifs from Memphis design was shown during New York design week.
Photography is by Theresa Marx.