British fashion designer Gareth Pugh has made a patriotic return to London Fashion Week, pulling together references from across the UK for his Autumn Winter 2015 show.
After presenting in Paris for seven years, the designer brought the show to London to celebrate his label's 10th anniversary.
"This city is where everything started for me, my entire creative family are here, so it's in everything I do," said Pugh. "It's my home."
His presentation on Saturday evening took place in the imposing Raphael Gallery at the V&A museum, where Barber and Osgerby's giant rotating mirrors were installed for last year's London Design Festival.
It began with a film by cinematographer Ruth Hogben of a model cutting her long blond hair short, then painting her face and body with the red cross of Saint George – England's patron saint.
The giant projected image remained on screen and provided the backdrop for the catwalk.
Britannia, the female personification of the country, was the muse for Pugh's all-black Autumn Winter 2015 collection.
"Britannia heralds the onslaught, a weaponised woman, hardened and battle ready," said the notes issued at the show.
s Roman helmet, trident and shield were exaggerated and adapted into accessories worn by the models, whose faces were each painted with Saint George's cross.
"In the past Pugh has described his work as modern armour, and this collection is totally informed by this ideal," said the show notes.
The presentation was set to a soundtrack of heavy bass noises laid over chants from Sunderland Football Club – the team of Pugh's home town.
Having previously used strips of bin liners to form garments, Pugh debuted clothes covered in thousands of hand-cut black drinking straws for this season.
The straws were used to create "birdlike and reptilian" dresses that swayed and shifted as the models walked, as well as stiff panels attached to bodices, skirts and oversized shoulder pieces.
Giant padded coats were wrapped around the body like duvets with sleeves, which were enlarged towards the openings.
Leather bodices with V-shaped hem lines were paired with floor-length skirts, while long leather gloves and boots featuring shield-like shin guards accompanied fur dresses.
One outfit was completed by a tall bearskin hat, which is worn as part of the ceremonial military uniform of the Foot Guards – best recognised in their posts outside Buckingham Palace.
Bare-chested and painted to match the character from the film, the final model carried a huge red flag to lead a procession for the finale.
London Fashion Week continues until 24 February. Also during the event, The Unseen is presenting a sculptural jacket that changes colour depending on the wearer's mood.